| What is it that we love so much about Provencal food? Could it be that Provence's signature ingredients – olive oil, garlic, tomatoes – are Italian? Not surprising, since Nice and the surrounding area were part of Italy until 1860. Ratatouille, the classic of Provence, is already well on its way to being Italian. We're just giving it a little push toward Italy by adding Paradiso extra virgin olive oil, mozzarella, Italian herbs, and Italian bread. Ratatouille is a newcomer to French cuisine. Escoffier doesn't mention it in his 1903 Guide Culinaire; neither does the chef who influenced Julia Child, Madame Ste. Ange, in her 1927 cookbook. There is no ancient tradition to interfere with, so we are taking the liberty of making Ratatouille Italiano. Our rustico ragout, made with Paradiso extra virgin olive oil, can stand solo as a substantial lunch or light dinner. Italians would rather spend their time at the table with friends and family, eating vegetables, than spend hours in the kitchen chopping, frying, and cooking vegetables, so we've come up with some ways to shorten the hours of prep that the French version requires. First, the eggplant. Some recipes say to salt the eggplant and let it stand for half an hour to get rid of the juices. Maybe you'd need to do that if you'd bought the eggplant with the brown bruises, but you didn't. You picked the one that was fresh and firm under your fingers. The great chef Escoffier didn't salt eggplant before cooking it. Neither did my mother. That's good enough for me. Purists cook each vegetable separately. But eggplant, tomatoes, and peppers are all in the same family – they're nightshades – so they want to be together. Ratatouille is like a family reunion for them. Purists cook the vegetables uncovered, so that the juices will evaporate. Some even instruct that the juices should be drained off. That works if you're going to serve it as a side dish on the same plate with roast meat. But we think that a good motto to live by is: Never throw away anything that contains Italian extra virgin olive oil. That's why humans invented bread. Remember: Extra Virgin Olive Oil – it's the extra vegetable. |
| Ratatouille Italiano |

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